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Victoria Beckham unveils sexier collection in New York
Victoria Beckham’s autumn 2015 New York fashion week collection officially began at 10am on Sunday morning inside Cipriani’s in downtown Manhattan. Mint teas on silver trays greeted guests escaping the frigidly cold minus nine degree celsius outside, and family Beckham – coiffed and in monochrome – snapped selfies on the front row.
David Beckham with his daughter, Harper, on his lap, son Brooklyn and US Vogue editor Anna Wintour at the presentation of the Victoria Beckham collection at New York fashion week.Photograph: Lucas Jackson/Reuters
In reality, the show started a few days earlier when the designer was photographed by paparazzi at JFK airport slinking through the arrivals lounge wearing camel trousers with a belted side detail and a leopard holdall. A dog whistle to those looking for early clues as to her collection.
Victoria has long since worked out how to utilise that particular privacy intrusion in the lead up to fashion week. So inextricably linked is the personal style of the industry’s most notable musician-turned-designer and her catwalk designs, that these pictures act as the unofficial preamble to the show. Backstage after Sunday’s show, between soliciting reviews from her three-year-old daughter Harper, Beckham reiterated that it was so important for her clothes to be flattering so that they could go “straight from the catwalk on to one of my ladies” Or indeed (as went unsaid) herself.
British designer showcases her autumn 2014 collection at Cafe Rouge
The clothes on the catwalk held their own. With a 7,000 sq ft boutique on London’s prestigious Dover Street being prepared for an opening later this year, Victoria Beckham needed to deliver a strong collection to fill it, and this one was a hit. The past two years of the now five-year-old Victoria Beckham brand have seen it develop from its starting-block of glamorous dresses into more experimental territory, trying out looser shapes and androgynous elements.
The experimental spirit has been generally applauded, and has gained the brand respect and attention in the industry, but the clothes have not always felt as instantly desirable. With this collection, it seemed as if a fresh balance had been struck, the newfound cool factor distilled and used to pep up the elegance and femininity of the original aesthetic.
Design detailing and 360 degree dressing were the key words backstage. The silhouette was long, lean and fluid, with hemlines of skirts and coats mostly covering the knee. There was little cinching of the waist, and almost no flashing of leg; sex appeal came through the element of surprise, as the designer put it backstage, with unexpected slivers of skin shown at the back of a dress.
There was a generous helping of what is known in the industry as “fashion content”, which roughly translates as the depth and detail and messaging that makes clothes interesting. For example, coats fastened at the hip with bracelet’s length of heavy chain, but engineered so that they moved fluidly; a black and red tweed coat was based on a 1968 vintage coat, but the tweed remade in a rubberised, modern version; tunic-and-trousers offered as a cool cocktail hour look, a highlight being one all black look with a matt crepe top edged with silky black ruffles at the hip, over slouchy trousers.
“Every season I can push my fashion message a bit more, really get into the detailing: so this season was loose, but with more detailing. Last season was boy meets girl, this is a little more feminine,” she said, singling out the intarsia knits as an innovation for the new season”
The collection was more of a return to sexy-Victoria-Beckham-who-knows-about-fashion
It is a truth universally acknowledged that if David, Brooklyn, Romeo, Cruz and Harper Beckham make a public appearance together, it will be virtually impossible to get anyone present to pay attention to anything else.
No one knows the power of the Beckham brand better than Victoria Beckham and Simon Fuller, business mastermind of the Beckham empire. So it was a striking display of confidence in the latest Victoria Beckham fashion collection that while the designer directed proceedings from backstage, and the backer looked on from the audience, the three Beckham boys made their first appearance catwalk-side, along with front row regulars David and Harper.
David and Brooklyn were in suits and ties for the occasion, while the younger boys were in Burberry trenchcoats, showing an admirable understanding of the role of brand ambassador. (Romeo, 11, recently starred in a Burberry campaign.) Harper Beckham wore a grey silk dress pulled out by Victoria before leaving the hotel early that morning. Victoria said: “I’d love to say that David dressed her, but it wouldn’t be true.”
Victoria herself wore a fine black crew neck sweater with a calf-length black silk pleated skirt with pointed Manolo Blahnik courts, echoing the look of her new collection. She insisted, however, that “most of this week I’ve been in jeans, Chelsea boots and a knit”.
sources : The Guardian & Courtesy of Victoria Beckham
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